The Bolaven Plateau Loop or also called Pakse Loop is a loop in the south of Laos that can be ridden on a motorbike or scooter over several days. The Pakse Loop is particularly known for its spectacular waterfalls where you can cool off, but also for its breathtaking nature and coffee plantations.

Here you will find a complete guide, from arrival in Pakse, where you can stay in Pakse as well as on the Pakse Loop, how much time you should plan for the loop, what you can see and do, as well as important information and things that you should take with you on the loop.

Note: With my tips and recommendations I mainly try to reach backpackers who want to travel on a budget. That’s why I only recommend hostels, accommodations and the like at reasonable prices.

What’s the best way to get to Pakse?

By plane

The fastest and most relaxing way to reach Pakse is by plane. Pakse International Airport is located just 3 kilometers from the city center. However, flights in Laos are not particularly cheap, which is why it is worth taking a little more time and taking the bus.

By bus

The bus or minivan is one of the most popular and cheapest means of transport in Asia. Pakse is a very well-known city in Laos, which is why you will find buses from anywhere in Laos to Pakse. By bus or minivan you will probably arrive at the Pakse bus terminal, which is a few kilometers outside the center. There are numerous TukTuk drivers there who will take you to your accommodation.

• From Vientiane: There are daily night buses to Pakse from Vientiane. The 12 – 14 hour overnight trip costs between 450 000 – 500 000 Kip (20 – 23€)
• From Thakhek: The bus journey from Thakhek to Pakse takes approx. 6 – 8 hours and costs approx. 230 000 Kip (approx. 10€)
• From 4000 Islands: If you spend the previous days on 4000 Islands, you can usually book tickets to Pakse at your accommodation there. These also include the ferry from Don Det back to Nakasong. The bus ride from Nakasong to Pakse takes about 3 hours. Tickets cost around 130 000 Kip (around 6€)
• From Siem Reap: Buses also run from Siem Reap (Cambodia) to Pakse. The journey across the border takes around 10 – 12 hours and costs around 42€.

You can book bus tickets at good prices through 12Go.Asia. Alternatively, most accommodations and hostels offer bus tickets including a TukTuk pick-up from the hostel to Pakse.

Accommodation in Pakse

In Pakse you can find a few accommodations and hostels through Hostelworld or booking.com from 7€ per night. The Sanga Hostel is particularly popular for backpackers. If you travel solo, you have a good chance of meeting people there who also want to explore the Pakse Loop.
When it comes to planning the Pakse Loop, the hostel staff will be happy to help you with good tips. You can also rent motorbikes and scooters at good prices on there.

Rent a motorbike or scooter

There are several motorbike rental shops in Pakse. Miss Noy Motorbike is one of the best rental shops. But you can also rent a good motorbike or scooter for several days at the Sanga Hostel.
The price is around 100 000 Kip per day. You also don’t have to decide from the start how many days you want to rent a motorbike or scooter for. If you spontaneously decide to stay longer on the Pakse Loop, you can also pay for the remaining days when you return. However, you must provide your passport as a deposit.

What you need to know before you start the loop

• It is recommended to drive the Pakse Loop during the dry season (November – March) rather than during the rain season. Many paths to the waterfalls are very muddy due to the rain and very difficult to ride on a motorbike.
• Wear long clothing that will protect you from serious injury in the event of a fall.
• There are a few gas stations along the Pakse Loop. However, just in case, it can be an advantage to have a plastic bottle filled with gasoline with you.
• Along the Pakse Loop it is safer to park your motorbike in a paid parking lot. Motorbikes are stolen quickly, especially in Tad Lo. If you are staying overnight in Tad Lo, ask the owner of your accommodation to show you where you can safely park your motorbike overnight.

What you should pack

• Mosquito spray
• Suncream
• Swimwear + towel
• Medication and first aid kit
• International driving licence
• Rain jacket (especially during the rain season)
• Clothes and cosmetics for 2 – 4 days

How much time do you have to plan?

Most people take two days and one night for the little loop. However, it depends on you how much you want to see and how much time you have. In this guide I assume three days and two nights on the small loop. I myself spent four days on the small loop and can only recommend this if you want to explore the Pakse Loop without rushing.

The Pakse Loop

There is the small loop and the large loop. The small loop is 200 kilometers long and leads through the towns of Tad Lo, Thateng and Paksong before returning to Pakse. The large loop is just over 300 kilometers long and also runs through the towns of Sekong and Houay Kong.
During the rain season it is not recommended to drive on the large loop due to poorly developed roads. That’s why I only drove the small loop myself and can only give detailed tips for this one.

Day 1: Pakse to Tad Lo (85 kilometre)

The first day on the Pakse Loop is relatively quiet and most travelers only drive 85 kilometers to Tad Lo. Until Tad Lo itself there is only one waterfall and a coffee plantation to visit.

Tad Pha Suam Waterfall

The first stop on the loop is Tad Pha Suam Waterfall. The waterfall is somewhat remote and is not very often visited by tourists. If you don’t have much time, you can also skip this waterfall. Entry here is free.

Mr Vieng Coffee Homestay

The next stop on the way to Tad Lo is Mr Vieng’s Coffee Homestay. Mr. Vieng offers a 1.5-hour tour of his coffee plantation. The tour costs 35,000 kip.If you like it here, you can also spend your first night at Mr. Vieng’s Coffee Homestay.

Tad Hang & Tad Lo Waterfall

If you decide to continue from Mr. Vieng’s Coffee Homestay to Tad Lo and still have some time, you can visit the Tad Hang & Tad Lo Waterfall. Both waterfalls are close to Palamei Guesthouse and Mama Pap Guesthouse and can be reached on foot from there. You can go swimming at both waterfalls without having to pay an entrance fee. Another waterfall in Tad Lo that is worth visiting is Tad Soung Waterfall

If you arrive in Tad Lo late, you can also visit the waterfalls the following day. If you have enough time, you can spend the second day entirely in Tad Lo at the waterfalls and spend a second night in Tad Lo.

Accommodation: There are a few guesthouses in Tad Lo where you can spend the first night. The Palamei Guesthouse in particular is very popular with backpackers. Here you can get a single room for the night for 80,000 kip

Other accommodations in Tad Lo include:

• Fandee Island: This is a somewhat quieter guesthouse where you can get a single room from 200 000 Kip.
• Mama Pap: This accommodation is particularly suitable for backpackers. You can get a bed in a shared room here from 50 000 Kip.
• Sipasert Guesthouse: Here you can also get a single room for the night for 200 000 Kip.

Day 2: Tad Lo to Mystic Mountain (80 kilometre)

Very unknown to most travelers is the Mystic Mountain Coffee Homestay. However, this is a very special place, which is why I can only recommend spending the second night there.

Thateng Mini Loop

On the route from Tad Lo to Paxsong there is a mini loop that is only a few kilometers long, but offers incredibly spectacular nature.The loop itself cannot be found on Google Maps but only on Maps.me. When you reach Thateng, don’t go straight at the roundabout to follow the Pakse Loop, but turn left (this is also the road you take when driving the big Pakse Loop). After a few kilometers there is a road on the right that leads through breathtakingly beautiful nature back to the loop’s Main Street.

Mystic Mountain Guesthouse

If you still have enough time, you can drive a little further than Paxsong and visit a few more waterfalls. However, it is also highly recommended to go to the Mystic Mountain Guesthouse. From Paxsong a 15 kilometer very poorly developed road leads to the Mystic Mountain Guesthouse. It is very difficult to drive here, especially during the rain season. Therefore, you should definitely allow plenty of time for the route (it took me 1.5 hours)

Ultimately, the difficult journey is worth it because Mystic Mountain is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. It is quiet and you are in the middle of nature next to a stream where you can go swimming. You can also watch a wonderful sunset or climb Mystic Mountain and enjoy the view of nature. Very few people come here, which makes Mystic Mountain a truly special place

The guesthouse is also something very special. There is delicious food, good coffee, a comfortable bed and you have the opportunity to live with the locals.

Accommodation: Mystic Mountain Coffee Guesthouse. A night in a single room here costs 200 000 Kip. If you don’t dare to tackle the 15 kilometer off-road route from Paxsong to Mystic Mountain, you can alternatively spend the night at the Shared Happy Farm just before Paxsong. There are no accommodations to recommend in Paxsong itself.

Day 3: Mystic Mountain to Pakse (50 kilometre)

If you arrived late at the Mystic Mountain Guesthouse the evening before, I recommend staying a second night in Mystic Mountain. You can explore the surrounding area but also just relax for a day and enjoy the peace and quiet of nature.

After your stay at the Mystic Mountain Guesthouse, you can now see the most spectacular waterfalls in Laos.

Tad Gneuang Waterfall

The first waterfall you see when driving back to Pakse from Paxsong is Tad Gneuang Waterfall. Along with the Tad Fane Waterfall, this waterfall is also visited daily by tourists who come from Pakse and do not drive the entire loop. Therefore it is usually very crowded here. Nevertheless, the spectacular waterfall is worth a visit. You pay 25 000 Kip (approx. 1.10€) to park and visit the waterfall.

Tad Fane Waterfall

The Tad Fane Waterfall is one of the most beautiful waterfalls along the Pakse Loop. Numerous tourist buses also arrive here every day. Here you can also try out ziplining over the waterfall. However, you cannot swim here. You have to pay 25 000 Kip (approx. 1.10€) to park and visit the waterfall.

Tad Champee Waterfall

Another beautiful waterfall along the Pakse Loop route that is worth visiting is the Tad Champee Waterfall. During the rain season it is very difficult to reach the waterfall due to the 2 kilometer long muddy road. But you will therefore get rewarded with one of the most beautiful and peaceful places along the Pakse Loop. Entrance to the waterfall costs 25,000 kip (approx. €1.10).

Tad E-tu Waterfall

The last waterfall on the Pakse Loop is the Tad E-Tu (also Tad Itou) Waterfall. You can park your motorbike for free at the Bolaven Bistro, which is not far from the main road. From here you only have to walk a few hundred meters to the waterfall. Since the path to the waterfall is very poorly developed and dangerous, I recommend that you walk the few meters instead of risking an accident with your motorbike.

Once you get to the waterfall, you have to climb a few more steps down to the water. There you can jump into the water and cool off with a breathtaking view of the waterfall. This waterfall is also less visited by the masses of tourists, which is why you will probably have some peace and quiet here.

From Tad E-tu Waterfall your journey then goes back to Pakse, where it is best to first bring your motorbike back to the rental shop. From there your journey through Laos can continue north to the Thakhek Loop or south to 4000 Islands. For more travel tips for Laos, feel free to check out my blog post The ultimate Travel Guide to Laos.

The big loop

If you have enough time and are traveling during the dry season, you should definitely do the big loop. On this stretch, the Tad Katamtok Waterfall, the Tad Jarou Halang (Tad Tayicseua) and the Tad Diew Waterfall are particularly worth seeing.